
Installation and Programming Manual
11
Section 2: Installing Your ORBIT-Pro
It's easy to wire up the panel, its keypad(s), and any Expansion Module(s) you wish to install. In addition to the
wiring, you will also have to do some preliminary physical programming on the system’s keypads and modules by
setting some DIP switches. The entire process is discussed in this section.
Be sure the actual work is performed by experienced personnel, licensed to carry out security system installations
and capable of implementing all applicable requirements of the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA-70 and
NFPA-74), as well as any federal, state, and local codes–along with any safety guidelines and regulations which
might apply.
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(refer to Figures 2-1 and 2-7)
Mount the Control Panel’s metal cabinet at a dry location, near a source of unswitched AC Power, a good ground
connection (see below, right), and access to the customer’s telephone service. Use the proper hardware (e.g.
anchors, mollys, toggle bolts, etc.), as required, to insure a suitable mounting. See Figure 2-1 on page 19.
Thread all electrical wires through a convenient hole in the metal cabinet. To prevent potential damage, be sure
that live AC power is NOT present and that the Standby Battery is NOT connected. Your wiring, described on the
following pages, may include any and all of the following:
§ connections for the 4-wire BUS to include keypad(s) and Expansion Modules mounted either inside or outside
the panel
§ connections for Hardwired Zones
§ connections to Auxiliary Power
§ connections to Smoke Detector (resettable) Power
§ connections to any External Sounder(s)
§ if used, the Utility Output (UO1) connection (typically, will trigger a low current DC device (e.g. a 12 VDC
Relay, 70 mA, maximum) connected between the UO1 and the AUX /RED terminals (see page 8 for
additional information)
§ connections from the RJ31X (or equivalent) telephone interface
§ the Ground Connection (see the box at the right)
§ connections for AC Power
What Makes a Good Ground?
Grounding provides a degree of protection against lightning and induced transients for any piece of electronic
equipment which may, due to lightning or static discharge, experience permanent or general malfunctions. The ideal
"ground" is considered to be a unified earth ground in which an 8-foot copper-clad rod, located close to the existing
power and telephone ground rods, is sunk several feet into the earth. Appropriate hardware and clamps are then used
to electrically connect each of these rods together, and then to the ground terminal of the device to be protected.
Since this procedure is difficult in most cases, an alternative earth ground connection can be made to a conductive
metal cold water pipe within the premises. Because such pipes ultimately route their way into the earth, the attachment,
to the pipe, of a suitable metal clamp and a length of wire can make an effective ground connection for the ORBIT-Pro.
Verify that the pipe is metallic throughout its entire run into the earth since much of today's plumbing is made from PVC
(plastic) compounds. Do not use a hot water pipe for grounding because it will likely attach to a heating apparatus
which may not, itself, be grounded.
It may be possible to use an existing electrical ground on the premises if one is close enough to the panel. Ideally,
that ground can be obtained at the metal service panel where the incoming electrical power originates. When
connecting the ground wire, use a solid 14-gauge wire [or larger (numerically lower) size] connected between the
ORBIT-Pro’s GND terminal and run to an acceptable electrical ground connection. Keep this wire as short as possible
and do not run it in conduit, coil it, bend it sharply, or run it alongside other wiring. If you must bend it or change its
direction, it should have a radius of at least 8 inches at the point from which it is bent.
If in doubt, you may wish to enlist the help of a licensed electrician in matters concerning such grounding.
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